High Tide·Blog·Wind Mitigation

How to Read Your Wind Mitigation Form (OIR-B1-1802)

The High Tide Home Inspections team··8 min read
Single-story Florida home with a terracotta hip tile roof and palm trees under clearing storm clouds
Quick Answer

A Florida wind mitigation report is the OIR-B1-1802 form. The current version, effective April 1, 2026, has nine questions: building code, wind region, roof slope, roof covering, roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall attachment, roof geometry, secondary water resistance and opening protection. Each answer should be backed by a photo or document, and the form is valid up to five years.

Key Points
  • 01The OIR-B1-1802 was revised effective April 1, 2026, and the current Rev. 04/26 form has nine questions instead of the older form's seven.
  • 02The form requires at least one photograph or document to validate each attribute marked in questions 2 through 9.
  • 03For roof deck attachment, roof-to-wall connections and opening protection, the form records the weakest condition found, not the best.
  • 04The form states it is valid for up to five years, provided no material changes are made to the structure and no inaccuracies are found on it.
  • 05Under section 627.711, Florida Statutes, only certain licensed professionals, or others the insurer recognizes, can sign the form, and they must inspect the home personally unless they are a licensed contractor or engineer using a direct employee.

First, check which version of the form you have

The wind mitigation report your insurer reads is the Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form, OIR-B1-1802. Look at the footer of any page. It prints the revision date.

OIR says the form was updated as a result of a June 2024 wind-loss mitigation study by Applied Research Associates. Behind that is section 627.0629, Florida Statutes, which requires OIR to reevaluate mitigation features and discounts on or before January 1, 2025 and every five years after. This guide follows the current nine-question form. If your report was completed on the older form, ask your insurer or agent whether they still accept it for your renewal.

The top of the form and the photo rule

Page one opens with owner information: name, address, county, insurance company, policy number, year of home and number of stories. Check these first. A wrong policy number or address is an easy fix before you send the form, and a nuisance after.

Directly under that is a note that matters more than it looks. The form says documentation used to validate each feature "must accompany this form," and that "at least one photograph or document providing proof must accompany this form to validate each attribute marked in questions 2 through 9." A FORTIFIED Home Roof, Silver or Gold certificate may be attached to validate questions 4 through 6 and 8 through 9. The insurer "may ask additional questions" about anything the form verifies.

In plain terms: a checked box without a photo or document behind it is weak. Keep the photo pages with the form.

Question by question

1. Building Code

This asks which Florida Building Code was in force when the original permit was applied for. Answer A is the 2001 and 2004 code, B is the 2007 code or later, C is the South Florida Building Code (1994) for the High-Velocity Hurricane Zone (Miami-Dade and Broward only), and D is unknown. Homes built in 2002 or 2003 need a permit application dated after 3/1/2002 for answer A, and homes built in 2007 or 2008 need one dated after 12/8/2006 for answer B. The supporting document is the building permit record.

2. Region

New on the current form. It places the home in a wind region based on design wind speed, using the ASCE 7-22 hazard maps the form cites: HVHZ, Region 1 (140 mph or higher), Region 2 (130 to 139 mph) or Region 3 (under 130 mph).

3. Roof Slope

Also new. The inspector marks whether the main roof slope is 6:12 or steeper, or less than 6:12. For a home with several slopes, the form says to use the slope that covers "at least two thirds of the main roof area."

4. Roof Covering

The inspector checks every covering type in use (asphalt shingle, clay or concrete tile, synthetic tile, metal, built-up, membrane or other) and records a permit application date or a Florida or Miami-Dade product approval number, plus the year of installation or replacement. The summary answer is A (every covering meets the Florida Building Code, for example through a roofing permit application dated on or after 3/1/02, or an original roof on a home built in 2004 or later), B (Miami-Dade approval or the HVHZ path), C (one or more coverings do not meet A or B) or D (none do). A roofing permit or the product approval number is what supports A.

5. Roof Deck Attachment

This records the weakest way the roof sheathing is fastened to the trusses or rafters. Answers A, B and C step up in strength, largely by nail size and spacing: A covers staples or 6d nails at 6 inches on the edges and 12 inches in the field, B covers 8d nails at a maximum 12 inches in the field, and C covers 8d nails at a maximum 6 inches in the field (or qualifying board decking). D is a reinforced concrete deck, E is qualifying spray foam, and the remaining answers are other, unknown and "No attic access." Attic photos are the usual evidence.

6. Roof to Wall Attachment

This asks for the weakest connection between the roof framing and the walls: toenails, clips, single wraps, double wraps, structural, other, unknown, no attic access, or connections "not installed as intended." Each category has its own nail and strap rules, which we cover in our guide to hurricane clips, straps and wraps.

7. Roof Geometry

Hip, flat or other. A hip roof qualifies only if non-hip features are no more than 10% of the total roof system perimeter, and the inspector writes both measurements on the form. The measuring rules, and why shape matters, are in our hip versus gable roof comparison.

8. Sealed Roof Deck / Secondary Water Resistance

This asks whether there is a layer that keeps water out if the shingles or tiles blow off. The current form lists four qualifying methods: fully adhered underlayment meeting ASTM D1970, taped deck seams, two layers of qualifying felt or synthetic, or spray foam installed along the rafter-to-deck intersections and panel joints. The form states that "standard underlayment or hot-mopped felts do not qualify." The 2024 ARA study notes that an SWR layer applied on top of the deck is hard to verify once the roof is covered, so reroofing paperwork and photos taken during the job are what usually prove it.

9. Opening Protection

The last question grades the weakest wind-borne debris protection on every opening: windows, doors, sliding glass doors, skylights and garage doors. Gable and roof vents are not counted. The answer letters are A, B, C, N, X and Z, and for A through N a number (.1, .2 or .3) records how the solid, unglazed entry and garage doors rate. The form also warns that buildings with openings needing replacement "do not qualify for wind mitigation rate differentials." One unprotected opening can set the answer for the whole house.

A quick reference

QuestionWhat it recordsWhat usually supports it
1. Building CodeCode in force at original permitBuilding permit application date
2. RegionDesign wind speed regionWind speed map lookup
3. Roof Slope6:12 or steeper, or lessInspector measurement
4. Roof CoveringCovering type and complianceRoofing permit or product approval number
5. Roof Deck AttachmentWeakest sheathing fasteningAttic photos
6. Roof to WallWeakest roof-to-wall connectionAttic photos of connectors
7. Roof GeometryHip, flat or otherPerimeter measurements and exterior photos
8. SWRSealed roof deck present or notReroof permit, contractor paperwork, photos
9. Opening ProtectionWeakest protection on any openingProduct labels, approval numbers, permits

The signature block

The last pages are about who is certifying the form. Under section 627.711, Florida Statutes, an insurer must accept a form signed by a licensed home inspector who has completed at least 3 hours of approved hurricane mitigation training and a proficiency exam, a certified building code inspector, a licensed general, building or residential contractor, a professional engineer, a professional architect, or anyone else the insurer recognizes as qualified. The inspector checks which license applies and lists the license number.

The statute also requires the signer to inspect the home personally. Only licensed contractors and engineers may send a direct employee. The homeowner then signs a line confirming the inspection happened and that the inspector showed identification. Near the end, the form warns that knowingly providing a false or fraudulent form to obtain a discount is a first-degree misdemeanor, and that its definitions "are for inspection purposes only and cannot be used to certify any product or construction feature as offering protection from hurricanes."

How long the form is good for

Every page carries the same footnote: "This verification form is valid for up to five (5) years provided no material changes have been made to the structure or inaccuracies found on the form. Some items listed may not qualify for a discount."

Two parts of that sentence deserve attention. "Up to" five years is a ceiling, not a promise. A new roof, new windows or other material changes can make the old form out of date sooner. Section 627.711 also lets an insurer, at its own expense, require independent verification of a form before accepting it. How your insurer applies all of this is its call, so confirm with your agent.

What to do with your report

The form itself says to "maintain a copy of this form and any documentation provided with the insurance policy." Keep the full report, photos included, where you keep your policy.

Before the inspection, gather what you have: the roofing permit, window and door invoices, product approval numbers, and any reroof paperwork showing a sealed roof deck. Documentation is what moves an answer from "unknown" to a verified category.

High Tide's wind mitigation inspection is reported on the OIR-B1-1802 form. It is $225 on its own or $175 when added to a home inspection, and takes about 45 minutes to an hour on site.

The short version

Check the revision date first. The current form has nine questions, and each checked answer should have a photo or document behind it. The weakest roof deck fastening, roof-to-wall connection and opening protection decide those answers, not the best. The form is valid for up to five years, as long as nothing material changes and nothing on it is inaccurate. Anything about how your insurer uses it is a question for your agent.

About High Tide
Joanna Furuglyas, owner of High Tide Home Inspections

High Tide Home Inspections is owned and run by Joanna Furuglyas, a Florida-licensed home inspector and InterNACHI Certified Professional Inspector with over 40 years of combined construction and inspection experience, based in Palmetto. More about Joanna

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